The History of Saidaiji Temple
According to temple tradition, Saidaiji traces its origins to 751, during the Nara period. Fujiwara Minatari, who lived in Kuga in Suo Province, in what is now Kuga Town, Iwakuni City, Yamaguchi Prefecture, is said to have enshrined a statue of Kannon in Kanaoka, near present-day Saidaiji-Kanaoka in Higashi Ward, Okayama City.
In 777, the Buddhist priest Anryu established temple buildings at the present site. The temple was originally called Saidai-ji, written with characters meaning “rhinoceros” and “crown,” but its name was later changed to Saidaiji, meaning “Western Great Temple,” reportedly following a prayer document issued by Emperor Go-Toba.
Historical records, including the *Kinryozan Kobon Engi* compiled in 1507, state that the temple buildings were destroyed by fire in 1299. Even at that time, however, Saidaiji was already a major regional Buddhist center, with a main hall, a hall for the continuous practice of Buddhist chanting, a three-story pagoda, a bell tower, a sutra repository, and a Nio Gate.
The temple’s location near the mouth of the Yoshii River, once an important port in Bizen Province, helped it attract worshippers from across the region. Its long tradition of popular religious devotion eventually became closely associated with the Saidaiji Eyo festival, which remains one of its most distinctive features today.
Saidaiji Eyo: The Naked Festival
Origins and Historical Development
The Saidaiji Eyo originated in Shusho-e, a Buddhist ceremony of prayers for the New Year. This ritual is traditionally attributed to Jitchu, a distinguished disciple of the priest Roben of Todaiji Temple in Nara. According to temple tradition, Anryu brought the practice to Saidaiji, where it was held annually for 14 days beginning on the first day of the lunar New Year.
The festival gradually developed into the dramatic event seen today. In 1510, the priest Chua is said to have thrown protective talismans into a crowd of worshippers on the final day of the Shusho-e ceremony. As participants competed to obtain the talismans, they began removing their clothing, eventually giving rise to the tradition of men dressed only in loincloths competing for sacred wooden sticks known as *shingi*.
The Modern Festival
Today, Saidaiji Eyo is regarded as one of Japan’s three most unusual festivals and is held annually on the third Saturday of February. Preparations begin approximately three weeks before the main event. These include the ritual collection of wood for the sacred sticks, the carving of the shingi, and Buddhist prayers conducted as part of the Shuni-e ceremonies.
On the night of the festival, crowds of men wearing traditional loincloths gather inside the main hall, chanting “Wasshoi, Wasshoi” as they await the sacred sticks. Late at night, two shingi, ritually purified and perfumed with incense, are thrown from the Ofuku window above the crowd.
The men who successfully obtain the sacred sticks are considered the year’s lucky men, or *fukuotoko*. Their sticks are examined at a specially prepared temporary altar, and those officially recognized as the winners are traditionally expected to enshrine the sacred object for approximately one year as a symbol of good fortune.
Participation and Festival Traditions
Participation in the main festival is open to men aged junior-high-school level and above, provided they have no tattoos and have not consumed alcohol. Participants must register in advance with Saidaiji Kannon-in and the Saidaiji Eyo Supporters’ Association. They must also wear the prescribed loincloth and remove glasses, jewelry, and other personal accessories before joining the event.
The sacred sticks are traditionally thrown at 10 p.m. The festival also includes events that welcome younger participants and women. The Children’s Naked Festival is held for elementary-school-age children and younger, while women perform the taiko drumming that announces the start of the celebrations. These activities highlight the festival’s wider community involvement beyond the main ritual.
Temple Buildings and Cultural Heritage
Nio Gate
The Nio Gate was rebuilt in 1740 during the Edo period. This elaborate two-story gate combines traditional Japanese architectural elements with features associated with Zen Buddhist architecture. Guardian statues known as Nio stand on either side of the entrance, while carvings representing the twelve animals of the Chinese zodiac decorate the structure.
The gate is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan and is an excellent example of the decorative architectural style of the Edo period.
Main Hall
The spacious main hall was rebuilt in 1863 and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Okayama City. Its exterior reflects the scale and character of a traditional five-bay Buddhist hall, while the interior has been adapted to accommodate the Saidaiji Eyo festival. The outer worship area has a wooden floor, and the Ofuku window is used for the dramatic release of the sacred shingi.
The principal image, a Thousand-Armed Kannon Bodhisattva, is kept hidden from public view. The hall also enshrines figures including Kōmokuten and Tamonten, as well as Fudo Myoo and Aizen Myoo.
Gyusho-sho Hall and Inner Sanctuary
The Gyusho-sho Hall is a complex structure built in 1880. It enshrines Gyusho-sho Daigongen and Konpira Daigongen at the center, with a statue of Shomen Kongo positioned to the side. The complex includes the main sanctuary, connecting hall, and worship hall.
The inner sanctuary, built in 1869, houses a hidden image of Gyusho-sho Daigongen. Together, these buildings offer insight into the temple’s longstanding traditions of religious devotion and worship.
Three-Story Pagoda
Saidaiji’s three-story pagoda was rebuilt in the late seventeenth century and is designated as an Important Cultural Property of Okayama Prefecture. Its harmonious proportions between the tower and its ornamental finial give it an elegant appearance. The structure is primarily based on traditional Japanese architectural design while incorporating elements of Zen-style architecture popular during the period.
Inside the pagoda, a statue of Dainichi Nyorai, the Cosmic Buddha associated with the Womb Realm, is enshrined.
Koso-do Hall
Koso-do, also known as Daishi-do, is dedicated to Kobo Daishi, the revered founder of the Shingon Buddhist tradition. The hall was built during the Enpo era, between 1673 and 1675. It houses a wooden statue of Kobo Daishi, whose inscription identifies the sculptor as Kichiemon-no-jo of Tenma in Osaka. The shrine cabinet containing the statue is believed to date from approximately the same period.
Hexagonal Sutra Repository
The Hexagonal Sutra Repository was built in 1854. This distinctive, open-floor structure contains a rotating bookcase designed to hold Buddhist scriptures. According to Buddhist belief, turning the revolving shelves brings merit equivalent to reading all the scriptures housed within them.
Reproductions of the *Kumano Kanshin Jikkai Mandala*, which illustrates Buddhist views of the ten spiritual realms, cover the interior walls, alongside statues of the Ten Kings associated with Buddhist teachings on the afterlife. The repository is registered as a Tangible Cultural Property of Japan.
Cultural Properties of Saidaiji
Important Cultural Property of Japan
Korean Bronze Bell: This large bronze bell is believed to have been cast on the Korean Peninsula during the early Goryeo period. Celestial figures playing music and dancing are cast into its surface. It is among the largest surviving Korean-style bells in Japan and is also known as the Ryusho, or Dragon Bell.
Registered Tangible Cultural Properties of Japan
Gyusho-sho Hall Complex: Includes the main sanctuary, connecting hall, worship hall, and inner sanctuary.
Koso-do Hall: The hall dedicated to Kobo Daishi, built during the Enpo era from 1673 to 1675.
Hexagonal Sutra Repository: The distinctive six-sided building constructed in 1854, featuring a rotating bookcase for Buddhist scriptures.
Nio Gate: The ornate gate rebuilt in 1740, combining Japanese and Zen architectural styles.
Stone Gate: Built in 1819, this white structure is associated with the Ryusho Bell and has an appearance reminiscent of a mythical Dragon Palace.
Bell Tower Gate: A small, carefully crafted hipped-gable structure dating from the eighteenth century.
Important Cultural Properties of Okayama Prefecture
Three-Story Pagoda: Rebuilt in the late seventeenth century, this pagoda is based primarily on traditional Japanese architecture.
Seven-Tiered Stone Pagoda: A stone pagoda designated as an Important Cultural Property of Okayama Prefecture.
Kinryozan Kobon Engi: An old text documenting the origins and history of Saidaiji Temple, also designated as an Important Cultural Property of Okayama Prefecture.
Local Specialty: Sasa-no-Ha Senbei
One of Saidaiji’s traditional souvenirs is *Sasa-no-Ha Senbei*, a flat rice cracker shaped like a bamboo leaf. This local confectionery has a history dating back to the Edo period and makes a distinctive gift for visitors exploring the temple and the surrounding area.
The crackers are sold at several local confectionery shops, including Fukudaya in Saidaiji-hama, regarded as the original maker; Shiomi Tokiwado in Saidaiji-naka 1-chome; Komachi Sohonten in Saidaiji-naka 3-chome; and Shofudo, also in Saidaiji-naka 3-chome.
Access to Saidaiji Temple
On Foot
The temple is approximately a 10-minute walk from Saidaiji Station on the JR Ako Line.
By Bus
Saidaiji Bus Center, served by Ryobi Bus, is approximately a 10-minute walk from the temple. On the day of the Saidaiji Eyo festival, additional JR trains and direct bus services from major bus terminals in Okayama City may operate to accommodate the large crowds.
With its centuries of Buddhist history, remarkable traditional architecture, and the thrilling Saidaiji Eyo festival, Kinryozan Saidaiji Temple offers visitors a memorable opportunity to experience Okayama’s religious heritage and living cultural traditions.